The melancholy of a taboo love affair provides the emotional framework of Yuhan Wang’s collection. Wang looked to the epic 22 hour long stage play ‘The Peony Pavilion,’ written by Tang Xianzu in 1598 and its 2001 filmic adaptation, as she began to explore the psychological mood of the season. The lead character, Cui Hua, a courtesan/songstress who marries into a noble household, and later falls in love with a female cousin in a culture that strictly forbade same sex relationships, roamed at large in the creative process.
“My woman is surrounded by beauty but there is something unreachable about her,” says Wang who deploys the techniques of draping, embroidery, print and lace work in formidably feminine designs. The designer devises her own prints in watercolour and pen and for Spring Summer, the motif of the ripe peach and a slinking cat feature. “ A peach is symbolic in China: it means as ‘be blessed with a long life.’ I like to engage in Chinese traditions but in a modern way,” says Wang who grew up in Shandong province. The fruit decorates her signature gathered and draped stretch satin and rippling lace tube dresses and newly introduced separates including leg of mutton sleeve blouses fastened with tiny covered buttons, fluid jacquard midi skirts finished with a blanket stitch hems and lace blazers.
Throughout, traditional female handiwork is incorporated as an ironic souvenir of sentimental love. Upcycled lace doilies adorn a sheer lilac lace column dress; naïve silk thread embroideries appear on removable collars, satin pochette bags and a beaded coin purse; trimmed socks top Louis heeled satin pumps while skimpy bra-lettes and slip skirts slide in deshabille layers. Exploring the home environment, Wang dismantled traditional deco pieces including a peach tree table centrepiece re-using the real jade leaves for wreath necklaces and earrings fashioned with semi precious gems crafted by jeweller Kay Guo.
Since debuting her first collection at Fashion East in 2018, Central St Martins MA graduate Wang who now works as junior women’s wear designer at Marni in Italy, has gained international acclaim selling at stores including H. Lorenzo in L.A. and Dover Street Market. This September, Wang also releases a loose-leaf book of imagery - a series of intimate portraits shot by photographer and friend Laura Jane Coulson, cast by Madeleine Ostlie and published by Claire de Routen Books.
