ophelica
Grey Sheep
Location
moscow / russia
University
Ufa State Petroleum Technological University
Graduation year
2021
the name comes from Shakespeare's Ophelia, Hamlet's lover.
ophelica - finding the answer to the question: what clothes would modern Ophelia wear?
Latest Collection
mix of times and perceptions
The digital presentation of ss2020 ophelica capsule plays with time, interlacing past, present and future. The layers of time mix and infiltrate each other like alchemy. At the same time, the fundamental order of cause and effect always remains in place. The past is inevitable, like the future, but there is never an explicit interpretation for both. And the act of multiple perceptions is always happening at the very moment of now.
The look-book contains 19 digital gravures. Mystic graphic elements — voyeur-mirror, the scull, flowers of life and old-time jewellery — remind us of the imminent past. The living model represents the present. At first, she tries on the real garments and then — the digital ones, like foretelling the new times, which fully come to power with the appearance of the digital avatar from the future.
dualism, digital, asymmetry, Rorschach, monochrome
Key ss2020 capsule accents are monochrome black and white graphics, symbolising dualism. And also asymmetry, almost complete absence of straight lines, and Rorschach patterns, which give a full opportunity of numerous interpretations.
Important meaningful point is held by asymmetric, “broken” black and white dress and skirt, produced from the separate cuts of cotton, linum and viscose. “Broken” series’ garments are hand-made graphical fractured patchwork with unique designer textures, which all together shows the ambiguity of an unpredictable creative and artistic character.
The “Rorschach II” trousers are the evolution of the image, which was earlier created by the designer in a dedicated artwork. Now the trousers are made from structured black or white viscose with velvet hand-made Rorschach applications.
“The River” dress is made from the light silk which was coloured by hand using an alchemy technique. This reflects the mysterious path of the brand’s muse — Shakespeare’s Ophelia. Although the brand’s lyrical character — Ophelia from the XXI century — is living in a metropolis, we were always inspired by the nature of Hamlet’s lover — delicate, sensual, deep and ambiguous creative soul, craving for everything beautiful, undiscovered and new. Her image is like a mystical river coming from the distant past.
Bright and airy “Ophelia’s Labyrinth” blouse is made from structured light viscose with designer artwork embroidered by hand. The thin dark lines on the light background reflect the beautiful uplifting image and in one way resemble the labyrinth, which always has an exit, in another way — a lotus flower outline, and after all, gives way for the numerous interpretations.
The presentation is crowned by the “Orange” digital dress. It only exists in a digital world, but can be produced in real. The dress is made of linum basis with silk or velvet hand-made orange Rorschach applications. The leading colour is a bright spark in overall capsule colour scheme, providing deepness, contrast and wholeness to the whole collection.
Throughout the look-book, the digital avatar from the future keeps on interacting with the real model bringing down all boundaries and trying on the same garments. The moment is captured when the two models are standing together in a “Butterfly” black and white linum and cotton dress, and the beholder cannot tell, which garment is real.
digital transformation
ophelica cannot see the presentation of a new collection without integrating virtual outfits. These times are gone, and this completely erases the limits of time and space and opens the door to the new reality. We are very happy about it. Very soon we will see more brands representing digital samples, showing their collections — and people, who like the design, could order the real piece of clothing. Hence only the demanded clothes will be produced — not the endless flow of garments for the shop rails and subsequent burning.
Digital fashion is offering the designers unlimited opportunities for creation. And the main feature of the virtual fashion is sustainability and eco-friendliness. In times of overproduction and overconsumption, when tonnes of clothes are burnt to keep the pricing up, this could be a way to care about the planet and save resources.