MARIASBITI

The theme for this A/W 2012 capsule collection is ‘If Geishas played sport’. The collection proposes a modern take on traditional geisha attire. Looking forward to 2012, it takes inspiration from the upcoming Olympic games, but also from the resurgence in interest in Japanese art and culture – both traditional and modern – the latter epitomised by the recent Yoji Yamamoto exhibition held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, the ‘Future Beauty 30 Years of Japanese Fashion’ at the Barbican Centre, and a photography retrospective of Daido Moriyama and Shomei Tomatsu at the Michael Hoppen Gallery (all in London).

The Japanese influence is evident in the use of bold colour-combinations, and references to the kimono are found in sleeve constructions and high waistlines. However, the pieces are brought up-to-date with the introduction of recognizable sportswear elements, such as stripes, mud-stained prints, and thick upper-body forms.

Bulky knitwear was chosen to modify the silhouette, but feminine elegance was retained through controlled construction and figure-conscious designs. The pieces were knitted with a combination of thick unspun alpaca yarns and silk dupion and satin fabrics to add textural contrast. All pieces were knitted and stitched together by hand.

The overall result is a knitwear collection that combines Japanese femininity with athletic strength.