italy, Firenze, polimoda 2018/2019 "supernature fashion show"
The concept behind Manuel Calabrese's collection "Gentleman" is the destruction of sexual taboos and traditions. In this day and age, the social media-driven culture we are living in has destroyed and sense of boundaries and privacy, differences in borders and customs, blurred and no longer distinguishable. With his collection, Calabrese rejects the widespread expression of sexuality through smartphones and media and the way it is showcased. Instead, his aim is the reinterpretation of traditions and values with his unique language.
Tradition meets modern-day consumerism: A mix of raw materials like vegetal tanned leather and classical tailoring techniques, as well as digital print and fibres inspired by Chinese product packaging, translates the concept into his designs.
Calabrese's concept was also the starting point for photographer Gabriele Rosati. Since leather is utilised as a symbol of carnality in the collection, he decided to place these two bodies inside an aseptic yet vivid space, contrast being the fil rouge in all the images. There is a sculpturesque feel to the pictures. The models are motionless, seated representing a feeling of restriction and suffocation, both emotionally and physically. The frame of images and the location represent a metaphysical room that symbolises immobile bodies melting into spaceless boundaries. The models, who in this scenario are nothing more than pure bodies, are unconscious containers of intimate and sexual spheres. Just like paintings or sculptures, their bodies are on display after undergoing the process of cleansing and polishing their bodies and souls, purifying them in the process. “
