Dare To Dream
NJAL Exclusive: John Galliano's Message to Fashion's Future Design Incroyables
On 28th June 1984, John Galliano presented his Central St. Martins Graduate Collection, ‘Les Incroyables’. He was a graduate at Central St. Martins School of Art and this was a Graduate Show unlike anything else. His entire collection was bought, there and then, by the owner of Browns, the legendary Mrs. Burstein. The morning after there was no Instagram – no need – the collection appeared in the window of her trailblazing boutique in South Molton Street, London. Diana Ross was his first client. It's the folklore beginning that all fashion that followed has had to live up to...
The collection was inspired by the frivolous and fashionable aristocratic group of French dandies, known as ‘Les Incroyables’, ‘The Incredibles’ and the ladies – ‘Les Merveilleuses ‘Marvellous Women’, that appeared during the French Directory (1795-1799), a moment of decadence and luxury after the Revolution. He gave it a New Romantic twist; ideas can come from anywhere as long as you use them with originality. The ripple from this fashion graduate moment was instant – overnight Galliano started his own label, built a team, would move to Paris, to Givenchy, to Dior, launched J'Adore, the Saddle Bag, and staged Spectaculars that only he could imagine and put fashion on the front pages.
Today, John Galliano is Creative Director for Maison Margiela, where he has been since 2014, and remains at the forefront of creativity, the most original, inspiring designer out there moving from shows to film, artisanal to Co-Ed from his Paris headquarters.
Maison Margiela Co-Ed Collection 2023 by John Galliano, photographed by Britt Lloyd, courtesy of Maison Margiela.
Fashion is always looking for the next big thing, the new trend or name. Names come and go, are favourites then fade from view - so how can you stay at the forefront and stay true to your vision? Galliano's narrative has always been in a different league, pushing ideas, techniques, cuts and craftsmanship. He builds a narrative and a team where everything is in harmony. You can break the rules if you know the rules, much like a musician can improvise if he has taken the time to practice, learn the skills. John is a virtuoso mix of rockstar and conductor, always curious, always discovering and wanting to be inspired by the symphony of new ideas and adventures. From club scene to couture, street style to social media nowhere is off limits for inspiration. Perhaps one of the reasons his work at Margiela resonates with so many is his bold spirit of independence, the importance of curiosity as much as craft and beauty as he cares about inspiring the Creative Community. But has fashion changed? Or has his ambition and creative dream changed? How many ideas can you create?
Between Graduate Fashion Week and preparations on new collections, before the Artisanal and Haute Couture in Paris, John Galliano exclusively shares his advice with new designers and the new labels and graduates just about to embark on their NJAL adventure.
IS IT HARD BEING A DESIGNER TODAY? WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO FASHION DESIGNERS JUST STARTING OUT?
John Galliano: “Dare to dream. Inspire people. Be creative. Be determined. Don’t choose the easy option.
Being unfulfilled is hard, not following your dreams is hard – dare to dream, be different, make your voice count.
Fashion isn’t nine to five, it’s a way of life – it’s the oxygen that drives you.
Work with people that inspire and challenge you, build a gang of kindred spirits and you won’t ‘work’ a day in your life – it will be an adventure.”
Maison Margiela Co-Ed Collection 2023 by John Galliano, photographed by Britt Lloyd, courtesy of Maison Margiela.
When you look around you wonder if we need new labels, but we should always crave beauty, inspiration, and pushing boundaries. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder - or as one Galliano collection said: Everyone is Beautiful. So, if you are a tailor be the best tailor, if you are sustainable be trailblazing and make a change, if you are using dead stock, reworking or up-cycling give your method as much are as you do your idea. Beauty is as much in the process as in the making. Make a difference in all aspects of your work. Be fearless in your fantasies. Be part of a creative community. Be original, bold, and romantic as the future is there to be styled and inspired. I asked John if he could give one piece of advice to young designer starting today. Who knows what would have happened if Mrs. B hadn't put his collection in the window of Browns, or who might next be stopped on Instagram? Opportunity is out there - and it is there for the taking.
WHAT IS THE BEST ADVISE YOU COULD GIVE TO NEW LABELS TODAY? HOW CAN YOU BE 'NOT JUST A LABEL' - A REBEL, BE ORIGINAL, MAKE A CREATIVE IMPACT?
John Galliano: “Rules are made to be broken.
Fashion is the volume control – we are all unique – inspire us – be original.
There’s no Creative Crisis so use your creativity to make change. Always be a Rebel – always push yourself – work harder – stay true to your vision and have fun.”
Maison Margiela Co-Ed Collection 2023 by John Galliano, photographed by Britt Lloyd, courtesy of Maison Margiela.
AND FINALLY, FROM THE MAN WHO HAS INSPIRED AND CHANGED FASHION HERE IS HIS MESSAGE TO ALL THE NEW ORIGINALS, REBELS AND CREATIVES:
John Galliano: “To all the new labels and graduates just starting out – enjoy the ride - you are Not Just a Label you are the future Incroyables.”
It is your job to inspire us and to have fun...
