Courtesy of Marie Sloth Rousing

In times of relentless economic liabilities and a global mental health crisis, the fashion industry is finding itself struggling with a collective sense of anxiety and disposition. Rising inflation, job insecurity, drastic climate changes, violent political turmoils around the globe and the repercussions of a global pandemic have left many feeling uneasy, perplexed, and completely changed in the way we perceive the world but also how we perceive ourselves in relation to the world. 2024 has seen a surge in global depression and anxiety rates, resulting in millions struggling to carry on with the unpredictabilities of modern-day life. The unavoidable stream of disturbing headlines and social media’s infinite scroll of outrage have created an environment where people feel increasingly disconnected from the elusive stability that once grounded them. This collective tendency is not just a statistical number, it greatly affects how we dress and present ourselves in public.

Comfortable fashion offers a type of relief, a sense of physical and mental security through what we wear, as we attempt to navigate this "emotional overload” we also learn how to prioritise personal well-being instead of having to sacrifice for it. The rise of comfort is deeply rooted in our primal need for security and self-preservation, especially now, living in a world that feels increasingly alienating.

Courtesy of Can Cui

The rise of loungewear as clothing, the spike of baggy y2k athleisure, or the newly revamped takes on the officecore came like nothing of a surprise this season, signalling that the societal views on what is acceptable to wear in public and what shall be left at home have shifted. Labels that once waved the banner of form-fitting, hyper-sexual high-maintenance garments are now drifting towards more relaxed, wearable options. Small heels are being wiped out of the stores, leaving sky high stilettos on the shelves till kingdom come.  Along with physical comfort, this trend also acts as a protective layer against all the chaos, a refuge, a way to cocoon yourself and generate a sense of emotional ease in a world that feels increasingly out of control.

The sense of comfort also creates a necessary shift in fabrics that make up our clothes. Natural fibres like cotton, linen and wool have taken over the market, along with new, more innovative and eco-friendly materials that not only reduce environmental harm but also claim certain health benefits. Brands are turning towards algae-based fabrics, mushroom leather, or probiotic clothing, which incorporates beneficial bacteria into the fabric, and is biodegradable and skin-friendly. There’s even materials that release vitamins and antioxidants into the skin, supporting your health while being worn along with UV protection and antimicrobial properties. For example Piñatex, made from pineapple leaves, and Bananatex, made of banana plants offer sustainability but also durability and versatility, as an alternative to leather and synthetics. This broader movement towards a more holistic approach could potentially signal a significant shift in the industry, and create bigger benefits for the planet as whole if incorporated in masses.

Courtesy of Cunnington & Sanderson

At the core of these shifts in fashion lies a recognition of the importance of mental health and self-care. In today’s fast-paced world, entangled in social media noise, emotional exhaustion has become something that can affect all aspects of our lives. This in itself only emphasises mental well-being as a crucial survival strategy. Fashion, once a tool for self-expression and identity, has evolved into a form of therapy, offering a means to protect and nurture the self in an increasingly hostile environment.

The concept of "enclothed cognition" coined by Hajo Adam and Adam D. Galinsky suggests that what we wear can directly influence our feelings and behavioural patterns. The act of wearing comfortable, well-crafted clothing can not only cater to our emotional state and confidence, but can also help reclaim the lost sense of control and stability in a world that often feels out of control. The study done by Dr Galinsky showed that people’s perception of a basic white lab coat changes based on their knowledge of who it belongs to: if they wear a white coat that they believe belongs to a doctor, their attention and focus increase significantly, however when they wear the same white coat thinking it belongs to a painter, this heightened attention does not occur.

Courtesy of Borja Romea Aladrén

This difference highlights the symbolism behind fashion: we attribute garments with certain qualities based on our knowledge of its origins. A little black dress can invoke a “wow effect” if it's the original Little Black Dress designed by Coco Chanel herself, but if you see a similar design on the rack you might not even pay attention to it because it looks simple; a T-shirt is just a T-shirt unless it has a Balenciaga logo on it, etc. Dr. Galinsky’s studies also concluded that for clothing to influence our psychological processes, it must be worn and felt on the body, which is why you’re more prone to buying the garment after you’ve already tried it on; a bride is more likely to buy the dress if she tried it on with a veil. Clothes we wear have the ability to invade your body and brain, altering your psychological state, shaping our cognitive abilities and how we interact with the world around us.

Courtesy of Alessia Aucoin

In conclusion, the more the world around us seems to be overwhelming and stressful, the more trends like “quiet luxury” and “recession-core” emerge as a form of a powerful resistance, a way to care for ourselves in the face of external pressures. The trend of comfortable clothing, the shift toward healthier fabrics, and the growing need for mental health awareness all point to a deeper understanding of how big of a role fashion actually has in our lives. It is no longer about sacrificing comfort for style;  but prioritising comfort and changing our perception of style to cater a newer way of self-awareness and well-being. In this sense, fashion has become more than an outer layer, helping us to navigate the complications of the modern world with a little more ease and a lot more comfort.

Visit NJAL I Designers to discover visionary creators redefining the world of comfort wear.