“YOUTH FASHION IS AN ATTEMPT TO ARTICULATE OBSESSIONS, BUT ALSO TO OBJECTIFY THEM AND BRING THEM INTO COMMUNICATIVE DISCOURSE: THEY SHARE WHAT IS FELT AND EXPERIENCED. AND FINALLY, THE STAGED EXTREME
CONDITIONS ONLY REFLECT WHAT IS ANYWAY THE BACKGROUND OF THE WORLD WE LIVE IN.”
(RAINER DOLLASE: “VON GANZ NATÜRLICH BIS SCHÖN VERRÜCKT”- ZUR PSYCHOLOGIE DER JUGENDMODE, P. 51).
“A SIGN DOES NOT SIMPLY EXIST AS PART OF REALITY - IT REFLECTS AND REFRACTS ANOTHER REALITY. THEREFORE IT MAY DISTORT THAT REALITY TO BE TRUE TO IT, OR MAY PERCEIVE IT FROM A SPECIAL POINT OF VIEW, AND SO FORTH. EVERY SIGN IS SUBJECT TO THE CRITERIA OF IDEOLOGICAL EVALUATION...THE DOMAIN OF IDEOLOGY COINCIDES WITH THE DOMAIN OF SIGNS. THEY EQUATE WITH ONE ANOTHER. WHENEVER A SIGN IS PRESENT, IDEOLOGY IS PRESENT TOO. EVERYTHING IDEOLOGICAL POSSESSES A SEMIOTIC VALUE.”
(VOLOSINOV, 1973, DICK HEBDIGE: SUBCULTURE THE MEANING OF STYLE, P. 13).
THE LINGUIST V.N. VOLOSINOV GIVES IN THIS QUOTE THE TERMINOLOGY OF THE SIGN AND THE OBJECT. ALTHOUGH IT COMES FROM LINGUISTICS, THIS DEFINITION CAN BE APPLIED TO CLOTHING, BECAUSE FASHION IS A “LANGUAGE WITHOUT WORDS”, A SO-CALLED
VESTIMENTAL COMMUNICATION.
VESTIMENTIAL COMMUNICATION IS COMPLEX AND DYNAMIC, BECAUSE IT APPLIES TO THE ENCODER (THE PERSON WHO DRESSES; IN THIS CASE:THE YOUNG PEOPLE) AS WELL AS TO THE DECODER (THE PERSON WHO DECODES THE MESSAGES OF CLOTHING).
THE YOUNG PEOPLE OF DIFFERENT SUBCULTURES REPRESENT, THROUGH THEIR CLOTHING AND STYLE, SOLUTIONS TO PROBLEMS IN THE PRIVATE BUT ALSO IN THE PUBLIC SPHERE. THEY MAKE USE OF THE MEANS OF BRICOLAGE BY PLACING THE ORIGINAL MEANING OF AN OBJECT IN A NEW CONTEXT AND CHANGING OR EVEN ABOLISHING IT (E.G. THE SAFETY PIN IN PUNK CULTURE). “THE STRUCTURES, ‚IMPROVISED‘ OR MADE UP (THESE ARE ROUGH TRANSLATIONS OF THE PROCESS OF BRICOLER) AS AD HOC
RESPONSES TO AN ENVIRONMENT, THEN SERVE TO ESTABLISH HOMOLOGIES AND ANALOGIES BETWEEN THE ORDERING OF NATURE AND THAT OF SOCIETY, AND SO SATISFACTORILY, EXPLAIN‘ THE WORLD AND MAKE IT ABLE TO BE LIVED IN.“ (HAWKES,1977)
IN MY BACHELOR COLLECTION UNDER THE NAME: “МЫ ЖДЁМ ПЕРЕМЕН!”. ( WE ARE WAITING FOR CHANGES!),I APPROACH THE SOVIET AND RUSSIAN YOUTH CULTURE, WHICH INFLUENCED AND SHAPED ME AS A YOUNG PERSON. THIS QUOTE IS FROM A SONG BY THE MOST FAMOUS SOVIET MUSICIAN VIKTOR ZOI FROM THE 80S. LYRICS TAKE AN IMPORTANT PLACE IN THE CREATION OF THE GARMENTS.
Photo_Noah Heupel
Make_up_clara Dietz
Model_Daniela_Anne_frederick_june
