I.AM

This Womenswear collection explores female masculinity and Punjabi theatre (in Pakistan) through the Mahi Munda archetype as a social commentary on the gender binaries present in this theatre. I.AM uses textile and print experimentation to create a collection that is a composition of inspirations from both Pakistani and Japanese Cultures; art-historical imagery and performances from the Punjabi Theatre, Historical posters from Takarazuka Revue In Japan, and Kumadori make-up and oshiguma from Kabuki Theatre in Japan.

I come from a country with a very beautiful and strong cultural and historical background. I was born in Pakistan and I lived there till I was 13 years old. However, after moving out and living in other countries and interacting with different people and cultures did I start to see the flaws within a patriarchal society. Being a third-culture kid, I was given the liberty to take inspiration from different cultures and make them part of myself.

The Mahi Munda archetype is similar to the tomboy archetype due to the nature of the masculine characteristics present. Women throughout history have been using the tomboy aesthetic to either protect themselves, to fit into a hyper-male environment or simply because they feel vulnerable or uncomfortable wearing effeminate clothing. The tomboy aesthetic is a more Western concept, which I analyzed through the otokoyaku role type (female-to-male) in the Takarazuka Revue, an all-female theatre in Japan.

Similarly, women in the Punjabi theatre act like a mahi munda, not just as a protective identity, but also as a hyperbolic expression of masculinity to mock the patriarchal values as well as the male gaze that dominates this theatre.